The start of this year has been very slow for me in the way of climbing. A brief visit to The Ramp in Avon Gorge was the first time I’ve been out since early December. On this outing Ben and I enjoyed the delights of ‘Banshee’ E2 5c, ‘Us’ E2 5b and ‘Who Me’ HVS 5b.
Tom at the base of Cheyne Weares, Portland.
A few days later, Tom and I headed to Portland foe the weekend. Having not done much for a while getting some mileage in was the plan. We visited The Cuttings and Cheyne Weares on both Saturday and Sunday. We got 9 routes in that weekend including three 7a’s and a 7a+ but the highlight was a 28m f6c called ‘Drowning on Dry Land’ at Cheyne Weares. On the three routes to the left, the first 25 ft of wall has collapsed, leaving large blocks on the ground with the bolts still visible. This does make you wonder how stable the whole face is!?
Bolted block on the ground.
Chesil beach sunset.
A few weeks later, I went back to The Ramp with Tom Heslam. It turned out a good session, repeating the classic routes; ‘Banshee’ E2, ‘Rancho Cucomonger’ E3, ‘Arms Race’ E4 and following Tom up ‘Low Profile’ E5 to finish off with.
We then took a Saturday day trip to Torbryan Quarry.
Prajak enjoying the sunshine.
Torbryan is a great little wall, the best of the routes being in the low to mid 7’s. Mileage was still the plan and this worked out well, between us most route’s of 7a – 7b got an ascent. Highlights being, Harrison’s stirling effort on ‘Thread Flintstone’ 7b after doing ‘Barney Rubble’ 7a+ and my accidental onsight of ‘Little White Lie’ 7b thinking I was getting on a 6c, good old photo topo’s.
Prajak on ‘Viscious Delicious’ 7b
A happy team packing up for the day.
Sunday, a small team of us headed out in search of more mileage. This turned out to be one of the best walls I’ve visited in the UK, I was feeling pretty tiered from the last two days but just about managed to haul my way up two 7a’s and an amazing 25m 7a+.
Harrison catching some Sunday sun.
After just one rest day, Ben and I headed down to Anstey’s Cove on Tuesday. Ben’s been trying ‘Poppy’ f8b+ and I decided it was time to begin the process on ‘Tuppence’ f8b. The crag was busy, 3 people on ‘Tuppence’, 2 on ‘Poppy’ and 1 on ‘A Fisherman’s Tale’. Unfortunately, conditions did not hold out long enough for Ben on ‘Poppy’ and I managed to get ‘Tuppence’ in 2 links, but didn’t have enough beans for a decent RP effort.
Hopefully we will get back down there soon.
Matt Cox 